Kyoto

Moss and tofu, two things made magical in Kyoto.

Saihõ-ji is located in southwester Kyoto and is perhaps better known as Koke-dera, or the "moss temple."  It was reputedly founded in the Nara period (710-794) but has gone through several transformations in its evolution from a royal retreat to a Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple.  The moss which covers the gardens around the eastern part of the temple, likely arrived during the Meiji Era, due to insufficient funds to keep the grounds.  But it is certainly welcome and cared for now, with upwards to 120 varieties surrounding the lake.  The lake itself is in the shape of the kanji character for "heart" or "mind."

Reflect in the pond of the moss garden

moss around a tree

beginning of fall

It's a truly beautiful place, perhaps made more so by the limitations placed on tourism.  In order to enter, one must mail an application and wait for a postcard reply with the date and time that you will be permitted to enter. (Many thanks again, to friends in the orchestra organizing this.)  The time varies, so one can't assume travel plans.  The cost is more expensive than other temples at 3,000 yen (roughly $35), and once there, one is required to sit zazen, or copy a sutra.  The latter was our task.  We sat on the floor at tiny desks in a room full of other people, and traced the heart sutra with a brush and ink that we mixed in a little tray on the floor.  About halfway through our work, we stopped as monks and those able recited the sutra at a brisk and monotone pace, three times, accompanied by a seemingly unsystematic bell and a continuous drum.  

The Heart Sutra

The sutra that we copied was the Heart Sutra and I only know of its meaning through what people have told me and the internet.  It is part of the Perfection of Wisdom category of Mahayana Buddhism and apparently speaks of the emptiness of the phenomena that we perceive.  We cannot truly comprehend the reality of truth.

I copied and listened to to an incomprehensible skeleton of words.  How often do we have the opportunity?  Doing something for the sake of doing it.  No pictures allowed, no way to cheat the present moment, and the resulting gratitude for being there.

listening to a man speaking and the sound of crickets,
waiting for enlightenment

Following our walk of the gardens we took a side trip to the the Kegon-ji (Suzumushidera) or cricket temple.  Before entering these gardens we sat for a very long time in a large room of people listening to more incomprehensible words, this time reportedly about the wishes that are granted to the people who have entered (and perhaps that have bought the temple trinkets).  There was green tea and a sweet for everyone.

runner-pulled rickshaw

 We went back to the bus stop and rode to a bridge over a huge river.  We walked around for a bit and saw some of the shops and the runner-pulled rickshaws, before getting on a bus to ride across town to the Gion district where we would be having dinner.  Luckily we had plenty of time to stroll through several shrines, parks, and shops on the way, getting a taste of one of Kyoto's more famous districts.

chopstick store

lanterns at shrine

headed into the Gion District

the moon in Kyoto 

dessert shop with  suspended weight glass displays

exiting shrine to the busy streets of modern Kyoto

It was a beautiful evening to walk through the streets of Kyoto and take in some of the many colors and feelings that it could share.








And then we finally reached the time and place of our dinner reservation.   It was more than worth the 4100 yen and I think it's taught me that dining in Japan–the nature of the food, its presentation, the amount, the experience–is worth the cost.  There are always more little dishes of deliciousness on the way and all beautifully served.  It's hard to feel dissatisfied, but I think I may keep trying.

Three deliciously seasoned presentations of tofu

Steamed tofu with onions, ginger and soy sauce added to your liking;
 grilled tofu with seasoning

Each person had their own pot of steamed tofu over a flame

tempura shrimp, mushrooms, peppers, with sauce and salt seasoning

sticky (almost like mochi) rice with seasonings;
soup with fish balls and cabbage (?)

matcha, a small but thick serving, and a sticky delicious goo with soybean powder
really delicious finish to an incredible dinner

Kyoto is so beautiful.  It seems to breathe magic into the mundane.  I'm looking forward to another visit.  And most likely many more.